Menwear designed to be viewed from all angles is now a thing – with a nod to the 3D sculptural art of Alexander Calder. And sometimes even the back of the garment is the main event.
Tate Modern’s Alexander Calder retrospective is compulsory viewing for any man thinking about what to wear in 2016. Clothes designed to be viewed from all angles are increasingly popular, bringing the 360 degree principle of the sculptor’s work out of the gallery and into men’s wardrobes.
There is a noticeable uptake of this idea on the menswear catwalk for spring, meaning those sitting in the front row at shows had to pay attention to models walking both away and toward them. Kim Jones’ designs for Louis Vuitton went heavy on the so-called souvenir jacket, with embroidery on the back of satin (Zayn Malik wore one in the front row).
Marc Jacobs and Loewe were other brands to push similar ideas, while others ranging from Sacai to Haider Ackermann made sure back and front views were equally interesting.
Damien Paul, Head of Menswear at matchesfashion.com, says this is “one of the strongest looks we saw coming from the shows” and believes the sartorial in-joke of making the back of the garment the main event is something that will appeal to men. “Having all that detail on the reverse just feels less attention-grabbing than wearing an all-over print,” he says. “There’s something pleasing about knowing people will only notice it when you’re walking away from them.”
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