As men’s fashion week wound up Sunday in the French capital, some clear trends were emerging for the months ahead, not least that black is back with a vengeance.
From Dior to Givenchy and Yamamoto and Rynshu, it was everywhere in velvet, leather and wool, often combined with red check, the style touch of the season.
But the trend that dwarves all others is for big and baggy. Small families could settle down for the night inside many of the overcoats that have come flapping down the runways this week.
Raf Simons went hyper-supersized with enormous puffa jackets, Off-White’s coats were so long they were almost adult sleep suits and Rick Owens went and created an actual sleeping bag coat, all riffing on the idea that the modern male needed comforting and somewhere to hide.
Watch out too for overlong sleeves that reach almost to the fingernails and rich, silky purples that appeared most memorably in Dries Van Noten’s gorgeous macks and peacock and serpent pattern coats.
Pink — which in the 19th century was seen as the most masculine of colours before it was lost to bubblegum girliness — has made a tentative comeback too.
It adorned the collars of Givenchy’s coolest jackets, Julien David used it for his most cuddly coats, and it was everywhere in Pigalle’s panorama of pastels.
Hermes tried to take a little of the taboo away by making theirs almost raspberry, while Officine Generale hid their pinks behind blacks and greys.
Another longtime style no-no, the lumberjack jacket, may also be about to be brought in from the cold, meekly making an entrance in Valentino and getting a glamorous makeover by Dior.
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